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Grappes & Le Parisien
Everything you always wanted to know about wine but never dared to ask

Soulless cheese, nasal crackles under resistance, I get bored in front of my traditional raclette.

So let's dust off this ancient recipe! No to the advice of happy flaps, long live the diversity of colours and flavours in the small raclette shovels! Free your regions, match the variations to wine treasures and wines from all over France.

Land and sea of Lotte, Lard and Goat

I want something new, I take out a monkfish cheek, cut across the width into two carpaccios, I add a slice of bacon, I cover it with half a slice of goat cheese. The Savoyard sea-ground rises from a little flat parsley: Boom : the stone is thrown and arrives on the plate of a mother-in-law as fresh as this magnificent Pouilly Fumé by Thierry Drouin.

Jura Morbier

The Jura girl? I cut some onions and place them on the pierrade/top of the machine, where the potatoes are sometimes put, I let them fry with some bacon. A nice morbier with raw milk, a little rosemary, I add a little fresh cream. A Savoy red that will make you regret drinking Burgundy, go to the Jura to Château d'Arlay.

Morbier Cheese

St-Jacques in gratin

Cream, scallops, a little coriander or chives, I cut small pieces of champagne to gratinate, I slide on a small leek fondue and with a beautiful Chablis from Céline Gueguen. According to your scholarship a 1er or a Saint-Bris for a change.

Flambéed forest

Omelette with mushrooms, I prefer the trumpets of death, the truffle or otherwise the button mushrooms, which I can make flambé on top of the device for more show. Just watch out for a cl of cognac! I put a layer of sheep's cheese on top and put it in the oven. I like the finesse of the pinot noir on the trumpets, so I go to Arnaud Pelletier's house at Château de Prémeaux.

Wild Gourmet

The Japanese board

Skewer of beef Cecina or Graubünden meat with cheese. Cut your squeegee into 1cm high x width rectangles, prick with a bamboo stick, roll up the cheese "stick" with a slice of dried meat. Let's be crazy, a little supplement of Satay sauce: in a small container next door, mix a little soy sauce and peanut butter with lemon and honey, to give a little necessary acidity. Have this, an Irancy of the Angst family.

Orloff Kawai calf

Who said that big dishes are not so cute in small? Small is beautiful! Finely detail a roast just out of the oven, alternate in your raclette utensil the bacon, thin slices of roast, cheese and let it melt. An original version that can be decorated with prunes, figs and apricots.

With this small dish you need a little delicacy, well-structured red fruits, a Morgon from K. Descombes.

On Top Crunch

Take out the bread, place it on the plate above the squeegee, brown the bread, add a few shavings of bacon if necessary. In the utensil, include cream, white ham and melted Emmental cheese. Pour it all over the toasted bread, accompanied by a touch of red, easy drinking and fruity, from the Domaine d'Ourea in the Côte du Rhône, which also makes wonderful Gigondas.

Smoke Squeegee

My friend Laurent's favorite. Far away is the time of my last smoked raclette, on the half-grinding wood fire, accompanied by its Chignin Bergeron from Château de Mérande.

Château de Mérande, a nugget in Biodynamics, sharp, precise, sharpened. Professional work! What do I like? The smoking that brings to the cheese wheel its little smoky taste, the fireplace that comes down to my plate and that fits perfectly with the wines of Savoy.

Roquefort pear with nuts

To be tried urgently with Gros Manseng from Domaine Laballe in the Landes, with a finely honeyed touch.


Reblochon scraper or mini tartiflette

Bacon and onions to be cooked in one pan, in the other the reblochon that is grilled before covering the potato covered with the previously roasted bacon and onions. To be served with a pretty Côtes du Roussillon in Gamay, for its hints of red fruit and light texture.

What will you call the recipe made in a frying pan, topped with a tomato sauce, a few black olives, mozzarella, a little parma ham and oregano and put it on a pita bread, catch with naan or crunch with a few nachos? I would like to add a Côtes du Roussillon to it to balance the small acidity provided by the tomato sauce and olives.

Nicolas Gravellier

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