The Organic Trend in French Wine Production

The umbrella term “organic” now encompasses a wide range of trends, from wines produced using conventional organic farming methods (AB) to so-called “natural” wines, as well as sulfite-free wines, vegan wines, and, of course, biodynamic wines.

Between 2007 and 2015, the area of certified organic vineyards increased from 14,600 to 57,600 hectares, to which must be added 11,000 hectares in conversion, representing 8.7% of France’s vineyards. 11 Over the same period, household consumption of organic wines increased by 41%12, partly bypassing traditional distribution channels.

Rising consumption in France

In 2017, organic farming accounted for 10.8% of agricultural employment and 5.7% of the total farmland area. Twenty-four percent of organic farms specialize in wine production. Furthermore, according to a 2016 study by Agence Bio, wine represents the largest share of household spending on organic products by value (792 million), ahead of fresh vegetables (626 million) and milk (483 million).

As for the consumption of organic wine, it has also been increasing by nearly 20% each year since 2010, even as overall wine consumption in France has declined, largely due to legislation and public awareness campaigns highlighting the dangers of alcohol.

A look at the export figures shows that in 2018, organic wine accounted for 46% of all wines exported. In fact, when compared to all other organic products sold abroad, organic wine accounts for two-thirds of the total.

A distribution network that remains highly specialized

Although consumption of organic wines is on the rise , it remains largely limited to connoisseurs who know where to find them, since they are not yet widely available in large retail chains.

Major market players, particularly large retailers and leading wine store chains (such as Nicolas, with 500 locations, Repaire de Bacchus, etc.), do not seem interested in new trends that emphasize environmental awareness. It should be noted, however, that 77% of wine consumers purchase their wine at large retailers.

As the only major player in this niche, with 31 retail locations—25 of which are in France—BiboVino, the bag-in-box specialist, sells wines all produced using sustainable farming methods, including a selection of organic and biodynamic options. Similarly, some online retailers specialize in this segment, such as Vinscheznous.com, which sells only organic, biodynamic, or natural wines. In summary, it is worth noting that the selection of organic and, more specifically, biodynamic wines remains limited to discerning consumers who visit specialty wine shops or purchase directly from the winery.

The distribution model chosen by winemakers: the Alsace example

The fact that large retailers have not yet begun to promote the latest trends in organic and biodynamic wines is also partly due to the choices made by producers. This is evident in Alsace, for example, among certain winemakers.

The sociological study on the consistency of professional practices among Alsatian organic winemakers, conducted by Jean Nizet, Denise Van Dam, and Marcus Dejardin, reveals that most Alsatian winemakers prefer “not to use wine merchants […] and refuse to sell their wines in supermarkets.” This choice is motivated, on the one hand, by a desire to limit the number of intermediaries between producers and the end consumer and, on the other hand, to maintain the highest possible sales margin. This is precisely what Les Grappes offers, for example, by enabling winemakers to sell their wine directly from the producer to a whole community of consumers and professionals via an online platform.

Despite the very limited selection of organic and biodynamic wines available in mass-market retail channels, winemakers are finding alternative ways to sell their products. First of all, they are not concerned about a concentration of winemakers in this category within a single region; rather, they see it as an asset: “As far as I’m concerned, all of Alsace could switch to organic farming. It doesn’t bother me. On the contrary: I’d even be pleased. Because you have a preserved environment; and then there’s the economic aspect—you have a tremendous brand image” (Source: Jean Nizet, The Consistency of Professional and Private Behaviors Among Alsatian Organic Winemakers, 2008).

Edouard Rapp

Have you heard of Petites Caves? It’s THE go-to site for natural wine!

And to discover unique organic wines or hidden gems, visit the Vins Etonnants website !