The tradition of Roussillon is based on blending, the diversity of soils and altitudes.

Diary #7 of Elise Gaillard, winemaker at Domaine Madeloc : While Burgundy has its climats (vineyard sites), Roussillon reveals deep and often very different terroirs (granite, schist, quartz, limestone, marl, etc.). Elise Gaillard shares her thoughts on the AOC system, a somewhat thorny subject, and also talks about her soils and the influence of climate on her wines.

What is a Controlled Designation of Origin (AOC)?

The Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (or Protected Designation of Origin, depending on whether one is speaking French or European) was created to highlight a terroir. And terroir is the perfect match between soil, climate, and tradition (in terms of know-how). Therefore, if one deviates from the grape variety, the spacing between vines, or the pruning method, or if the soil is no longer the same, one loses the appellation.

An AOC is created by the soil, the climate & the traditions

One might think that the main component is the soil. This is very clear in the Northern Rhône Valley : Côte Rôtie: schist; St. Joseph: granite. But we can also approach the AOCs by climate: Cornas – granite soil (like St. Joseph), but the slopes face south and benefit from a more southern influence than the neighboring St. Joseph. Thus, two appellations are created.

Finally, an AOC can be created based on tradition. This is the case with Côtes du Roussillon . The most widespread wines are naturally sweet wines, like those from Rivesaltes. But dry wines have always been produced as well. Therefore, the Côtes du Roussillon AOC was created, which is very extensive. Consequently, the Roussillon region encompasses several types of soil, various altitudes, several microclimates, and so on.

The soil is therefore not the only indicator of terroir. My unique characteristic in Collioure is that I work exclusively with schist. Therefore, I cannot manipulate the influence of my soil, as I do in the Côtes du Roussillon; I only have one expression (with its variations).

Elise Gaillard, winemaker at Domaine Madeloc: "Perhaps there are too many AOCs in France."

I think there might be too many AOCs in France. We might be losing consumers, and we might not be strictly adhering to the 1936 definition.

If you're a purist when it comes to AOC wines, you immediately think of the Burgundy climate: a specific soil, orientation, and grape variety. The Roussillon tradition, however, is blending (the vines are planted interplanted, meaning that white and red grape varieties are mixed in the same plot), the diversity of soils, and the varying altitudes (given the steep slopes, you quickly go from sea level to 400 meters!) . Therefore, there's no uniformity of taste in each Roussillon appellation, but perhaps that's the key and the pleasure of discovering new things!

Find Madeloc estate wines on Les Grappes.

Elise Gaillard (Domaine Madeloc)