The Natural Wine Trend

“Long live natural wine! Do you know when that slogan first appeared?”

What exactly is natural wine?

First of all, it is important to note that, officially, these wines—which some describe as “living,” “pure,” or even “naked”—do not exist, as there are no logos, texts, or codes that are legally binding. Thus, natural wines simply reflect a philosophy and a set of principles that certain winemakers have chosen to adopt. There is, in fact, a charter for natural wines established by some fifty winemakers united within the Association des Vins Naturels. The goal of these producers is to rediscover the original expression of the terroir where their vines are planted. However, this charter cannot be considered the universal definition of natural wines; it is merely a consensus reached among the members of this association. The charter lists the various criteria that must be met for a wine to be classified as natural.

To put it simply, a natural wine can be defined as a wine governed solely by the laws of nature, since its advocates emphasize the minimal or non-interventional approach to production. The term “minimal intervention” is used because the winemaker still plays a supporting role in the development of the vineyard and the grapes.

More specifically, a natural wine is one to which no additives are added during the cultivation of the vines or during the winemaking process. In summary, the “rules” that must be followed to qualify as natural wines include organic or biodynamic cultivation, hand-harvesting, the use of indigenous yeasts during fermentation, environmentally friendly practices, and the non-use of oenological additives during winemaking (only sulfur is permitted, but in homeopathic doses).

The issue of sulfur use is the most important one and is essential to being able to talk about natural wines—not just organic wines.

Sulfur is a chemical compound that helps stabilize and preserve wine. Wine is a “living” product that contains bacteria and yeasts, some of which can damage it and turn it into vinegar. Thus, thanks to sulfur—a powerful antiseptic and antioxidant—producers can protect the grapes both in the vineyard and during winemaking. Some claim that the Romans were the first to use sulfur for these purposes. However, there is no evidence to support this. It wasn’t until the 15th century, with a German royal decree, that formal proof of its use in winemaking emerged.

When it comes to sulfites, their effects on consumers are a matter of debate. For some people, they are believed to cause headaches the morning after a night of heavy drinking. However, no scientific research supports this claim. While it is true that people with sulfite intolerance are more prone to headaches when consuming sulfites, it is actually dehydration—a consequence of alcohol consumption—that causes headaches. So don’t be fooled into thinking that natural wines are a miracle cure that will let you drink to your heart’s content; only moderate alcohol consumption and staying hydrated while drinking will help you avoid a hangover.

The difference between organic and biodynamic wines

But what is the difference between organic, biodynamic, and natural wine? Initially, one could say that natural wine combines these two methods, taking them even further. Indeed, the rules of organic viticulture are applied: no pesticides, herbicides, or chemical fertilizers are permitted, and harvesting must be done manually.

Thus, it is in the winemaking process that the true difference between all these wines and natural wines lies. The desire to let nature take its course, which began in the vineyard, continues throughout the production of natural wine. Winemakers prohibit the use of chemical additives and techniques designed to alter the original juice. However, some winemakers (most, in fact) still use sulfur, but in much smaller quantities compared to other wine categories, as “zero sulfites” requires a very high level of production expertise. For example, for red wines, the maximum sulfur content allowed for natural wines is 30 mg/liter, whereas for organic wines the limit is 100 mg/liter and for conventional wines under U.S. standards it is 160 mg/liter.

As you can see, producing natural wine involves many challenges for the winemaker, particularly in terms of hygiene, which must be even more strictly controlled than with traditional winemakers. In fact, since no additives are used to “protect” the wines, the winemaker must be even more vigilant about hygiene in the workplace if they wish to produce high-quality wines. For example, the unpleasant odors sometimes found in certain natural wines are caused by a bacterium: Brettanomyces, which proliferates rapidly in unsterilized environments. The winemaker must compensate for the antiseptic role of sulfites with impeccable hygiene: while sulfites neutralize the bacteria and yeasts present in the wine, wines without sulfites (or with negligible levels) must not contain any bacteria or yeasts, or they risk spoiling quickly, or in some cases even restarting fermentation once bottled. The work of winemakers who produce natural wines is therefore very important and demanding, which may justify the higher price of these wines compared to others.

The characteristics of a natural wine when tasted

As you can see, natural wines are living wines, and here the saying “wine always reflects its terroir” truly rings true. Tasting them is sure to surprise and delight you.

First of all, it is important to realize that the low sulfur content in wine means that natural wines should be treated like fresh produce and stored at temperatures below 15 degrees to prevent secondary fermentation or changes in aroma. Another consequence of this is that natural wines are generally best enjoyed young, unless the winemaker has a firm grasp of the production process.

Sometimes wine may fizz slightly when tasted immediately after opening the bottle. This is because some winemakers add or leave CO2 in the bottle to protect the wine, since they use little or no sulfites. In this case, it is advisable to decant the wine and swirl it gently to allow the CO2 to escape. This will also allow it to breathe and improve its flavor.

Another aspect of these wines that may come as a surprise is their taste. In fact, some natural wines can have unpleasant odors, known as “reduction” odors. These odors are caused by a lack of oxygen in the wine. Therefore, decanting the wine for a short time will allow it to breathe, thereby reducing these unappealing odors.

That said, enough with the theory and all the talk—as they say, “the truth is at the bottom of the glass,” and the best way to form your own opinion about natural wines is, of course, to taste them. Even if you might be a little confused at first, the unique experience that awaits you promises some wonderful surprises—trust us!!!