Carménère, the Chilean grape variety that's moving upmarket

Updated on December 13, 2022

Uruguay has its Tannat, Argentina its Malbec, and Chile its Carménère. This little-known Bordeaux grape variety, rightfully restored to prominence in recent years, is experiencing a surge in popularity and taking its place among Chile's great wines. It has everything going for it: fruit, structure, a touch of roundness, and a history straight out of a good thriller.

Carménère: the forgotten grape variety rediscovered

It's a mystery story you hear in every winery in Chile . In 1991, a French oenologist, near Santiago, Chile, took a closer look at some unusual grapevines growing in the middle of a plot of Merlot. The grapes, like the leaves, were different, and they took longer to ripen… A doubt arose: this grape variety resembled Merlot, but it was probably not Merlot.

Amidst the Merlot, Carménère stands out in the wine world.

The enigma was posed, and it would take three years to solve: it was Carménère, an old Bordeaux grape variety that had fallen into general oblivion for nearly a century. So what were Carménère vines doing in the middle of Chilean vineyards? The crux of the story was Phylloxera, a merciless parasite that ravaged vineyards worldwide at the beginning of the 20th century, taking many grape varieties with it. Carménère was thought to be extinct, but in Chile, it had indeed resisted the invader.

Carménère, the ambassador of great Chilean wines

Chile's top-tier vineyards showcase Carménère.

Chile's vineyards stretch proudly towards the Andean sky, tall and majestic, producing grapes destined for ultra-modern wineries. Immense buildings that utilize gravity, semi-underground cellars that retain natural coolness, amphorae, concrete eggs, and state-of-the-art tanks. In these ultra-equipped and meticulously designed cellars, the ancient Carménère grape variety reigns supreme. After its rediscovery, estates identified it, separated its vines, and vinified it separately before proudly propelling it to the forefront of the Chilean wine scene. The wines are deeply colored, round, and easy-drinking, with a pronounced aromatic expression that emphasizes dark fruit. Depending on the winemaking method, they exhibit varying degrees of acidity, chocolate flavors, spicy notes, pepper, green bell pepper, and can offer remarkable aromatic complexity.

Suggestion : the 100% Carménère from the Max Reserva range by the Errazuritz estate in the Aconcagua Valley. Unbeatable value for a great Carménère. With an alcohol content of 14%, this superb red wine offers a dense and concentrated palate, while remaining elegant and smooth.

Food and wine pairings with Chilean Carménère

Carménère red wines are generally powerful and full-bodied. Therefore, pairing a Carménère wine with food isn't always straightforward. Slightly spicy dishes can stand up to the power of Carménère wines, red meats provide a good foundation for food and wine pairings, and grilled meats generally go well with concentrated and full-bodied wines.

For those who wish to add a touch of lightness and originality to their meal while staying true to the summer theme, delicately seasoned and spiced Mediterranean salads pair perfectly with Carménère. They bring freshness, a touch of acidity, respect the wine's roundness, and support its power.

Enjoy your taste buds, mucho gusto !

Manon Mouly (for Les Grappes)