EgiaTegia: Emmanuel Poirmeur, Basque Winemaker

Grab your masks and snorkels—we’re off to meet Emmanuel Poirmeur, our “underwater” winemaker at the EgiaTegia estate. Meet a bold and passionate winemaker.

Emmanuel Poirmeur's bold venture: vineyards on the Basque coast

Drawing on his extensive experience in France, Italy, and Central and South America, Emmanuel took a bold gamble in 2007 by planting his vines on the Urrugne cliff, not far from Hendaye.

In 2009, the project became a reality. The Chardonnay vines perched on this small patch of Basque Country with its clay soil benefit from constant winds that often reach speeds of around 110 km/h, which help prevent disease and improve the vines’ growth. As Emmanuel likes to say: “Here, viticulture is a battle.” The cultivation of this grape variety, typically grown in Champagne or Burgundy, is nevertheless perfectly suited to the local climate.

Underwater winemaking: how does it work?

All that was needed, then, was the winemaker’s gentle madness to bring EgiaTegia—Atelier des Vérités in Basque—to life. Emmanuel breaks the mold and challenges tradition. In the Basque Country, where orchards bloom and vineyards are on the decline, Emmanuel has taken on the challenge of growing grapes to protect the coastal environment and even… use the sea in a new way. Setting out to conquer the seabed, he vinifies two traditional grape varieties (Colombard and Ugni Blanc) to create his DenaDela, in Socoa Bay in Saint-Jean-de-Luz… 15 meters below the sea!

But why make wine underwater?

While part of the winemaking process for Emmanuel’s wines is done the traditional way, the other part follows an incredible approach that’s completely new to France!

In fact, to create a lightly sparkling wine with its one-of-a-kind citrus aroma, Emmanuel didn’t hesitate to submerge his vats 15 meters underwater for several months in the calmest part of the bay.

What motivated him? Underwater wine fermentation takes place under optimal conditions: stable temperatures (between 11 and 13 degrees), pressure, and agitation—a unique, patented process!

Wine-making cellars by the sea for a perfect harmony

Emmanuel has also completely restored the former powder magazine at Fort Socoa, whose buildings date back to the 17th century. The site, which is surrounded on three sides, provides optimal aging conditions.

By the way, Emmanuel, why don’t you tell us a little about yourself…? If you had to be a wine, which one would it be?

A Côte-Rôtie that blends red and white grape varieties, ora Cabardès that combines Bordeaux and Languedoc varieties. In short, a red wine that is both robust and delicate—one that, if it didn’t already exist, few would dare to attempt.

If you had to describe your personality in one or two words?

Skeptical and absurd—in a word, a pataphysician

Do you have a story to share with us?

An impromptu 100-meter dash on… wine barrels with one of my mentors in a legendary winery!

Has there been a meeting that left a lasting impression on you?

Thermodynamics…

What really gets on your nerves about the wine world?

All certainties, especially those promoted alongside—and despite—major scientific misconceptions.
Those who, in order to sell their wines, use disparagement of others’ work as a sales pitch.