“I Was Born into the Vat”

Château Pas du Cerf—a man’s world? Not at all! Geneviève Gualtieri tells us a story of women dating back to 1848.

Where does your passion for wine come from?

I fell into the vat at birth! Wine fills the air. It’s the annual “Adventure.” We work all year long to bring a new vintage to life—some years more beautiful than others. We tend to the vine as soon as it has yielded its grapes. We prune it, we watch over it, we give it all the care it deserves, and just like an expectant mother, we provide it with all the trace elements necessary for the grapes to ripen properly.

Which wine best suits you?

The Red Marlise. It has real character. Syrah and Grenache grown on schist-rich soil define this powerful wine. A wine made by female winemakers that is full-bodied yet velvety on the palate: a true balance of complexity, richness, and elegance. It is understated yet exceptionally classy.

What is your favorite time of year?

Spring, when the vines burst into life. The buds swell, promising a bountiful harvest. The tender shoots emerge from their winter slumber. Nature awakens, thanks to the biodiversity we have on the estate. This allows for the alchemy of interactions between organisms and our environment to take place.

What’s it like at a winery run by four women (and just one man)?

The man brings his rational side—the sturdy oak tree around which the four women can flourish. Each of us, in our respective roles, brings a unique sensibility—shaped by our individual personalities—that enriches this family legacy. But undeniably, the feminine touch will shine through in everything we create: the subtlety and elegance of our rosé wines, the meticulous bottle designs, the decor of our reception areas, and the inspired gardens, and more…

Has there been a meeting that left a lasting impression on you?

My father, through his love of the land and his passion for the vineyards of Château Pas du Cerf. A visionary for his time. Everything he predicted for me has come true. A tireless worker. If his daughter and granddaughters have careers today, it is thanks to him. He instilled in us a deep love for this profession.

What really gets on your nerves about the wine world?

All our politicians make us look like drug dealers. It’s the best job in the world. Everyone agrees on that, and yet we have to fight tirelessly just to do it.

Not from a deer… Where does this rather unusual name for a castle come from?

This is the name of the locality where the vines are planted. Here is the story: “As far back as anyone can remember, the origin of Pas du Cerf has been passed down to us by the elders during evening gatherings. In the year 1533, our good King of France, Francis I, stayed in the south to celebrate the marriage of his son Henry II to Catherine de’ Medici. Having traveled there with his court, the king spent several months on the coast. The Count of Provence, Lord of Hyères, invited Francis I to hunt deer on his lands. As the terrain was hilly and unsuitable for a hunt with hounds, the king pursued the deer on foot. A very large stag was killed, and in homage to the king, the inhabitantsof Hyères named the place ‘Pas du Cerf’.”

We imagine you’re a family that really complements each other—what does everyone do at the castle?

Everyone has their role! My husband manages the vineyard, my eldest daughter, Aurore, handles sales in France and exports, my youngest daughter, Diane, oversees winemaking, and my youngest daughter, Marion, represents us in the Bouches-du-Rhône region. As for me, I handle communications and marketing.

Find Geneviève's wines on Les Grappes