"Watch, be quiet, and learn."

This somewhat austere family motto has allowed the Brocard family to establish Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard as one of the star winemakers of Chablis . Wine, Land, Nature, and Tradition. Follow me!

Can you tell us a little more about your background and why wine?

Born in Burgundy to a family of modest farmers, I wanted to stay on that small, humble farm to maintain my connection with nature and for the sake of freedom. This was against my parents' wishes. After obtaining a vocational diploma in agricultural engineering and a successful stint in a design office, I was given the opportunity to return to my in-laws' vineyard in Saint-Bris-le-Vineux as a farmhand. This new venture, my father-in-law Émile Petit, and his friends proved to be an exceptionally enriching experience, fueled by the values ​​of the land I knew, the people, and the final product: its essence. I had the option of continuing to cultivate cherries as well, but I preferred to focus on wine. A non-perishable product, wine allows for control over its marketing and the opportunity to connect with consumers from all over the world, from diverse backgrounds. Before it is born, wine requires extensive work in the vineyard; not only annually throughout the four seasons, but also proactively, or as a consequence of our own actions or the vagaries of nature, over many years.

If you had to embody a wine?

It's not always the same, depending on the day or the season; I identify more with a Chablis Sainte Claire (which varies with the seasons but always finishes well). I prefer the Vieilles Vignes, which represents the late Petit Louis, my mentor, but I don't deserve that comparison.

What is your favorite time of year?

The changing of each season is always a rebirth, a source of wonder. However, the harvest period, despite the hard work, remains a gift from nature that must be received with respect and joy, regardless of the results.

What two words best describe your character?

These aren't necessarily qualities, and it's perhaps not for me to define myself. I would say observant and responsive.

Any anecdotes to share?

Many stories have unfolded in the cellars. Throughout history, wine has been a vehicle for connection and sharing; the cellar remains a timeless sanctuary, a haven from prying eyes and outside influences. The most famous anecdote concerns Guy Roux's acquisition of the young footballer Tainio, who was competing with other international clubs. The Auxerre coach had gathered the player's parents, originally from northern Finland, along with interpreters and his staff, in the cellar. After hours of difficult discussions and the consumption of our finest wines, the Tainio parents, initially reluctant to leave their son in Auxerre, shook hands and understood that the best place for their son was there.

Which encounter left the biggest impression on you?

My most memorable encounter was undoubtedly with Louis Petit, who took me in like a son and accompanied me for 35 years on this journey through vineyards, wine, and the people I met. He was my mentor. While every encounter is a sharing, even when one sets aside one's preconceptions, I was also particularly captivated by the wisdom, simplicity, and vast knowledge of the poet and friend Jacques Lacarrière, whom I met through Louis.

What do you find unbearable about the world of wine?

It's dogma, hasty judgment, the certainties of some tasters. It's also the dissection of the product, focusing only on its flaws. Dissection is death, whereas a wine in its entirety represents life; we instinctively love it with its flaws, which are often very useful in its development. You remind me of sensory analysis, which is a monumental piece of nonsense, a dissection leading to the standardization of the product. Every place, every being is a difference, an evocation; respect is ONE.

"Watch, be quiet, learn" is how you were trained in the winemaking profession, do you reproduce this same philosophy with your son?

Our three children received the same education, the one we ourselves received from our farming parents. We didn't force them, but I think they've absorbed those values. Julien, who runs the estate , perfectly embodies this philosophy.

You and your son are particularly drawn to biodynamic practices, and the estate now markets a wide range of biodynamic wines . Do you think this represents a genuine return to the roots of winemaking, or is it a trend that will fade away over time?

The return to biodynamic farming is Julien's initiative. It began in 1998 on an 11-hectare plot called "La Boissonneues." Despite my initial apprehension, Julien undertook this long-term project out of a conviction to improve the health of the soil and the vines. He was convinced of the benefits of better soil exploration and a more temperate vine, despite some challenging periods. Julien's dedication to this work wasn't driven by trends or publicity. The results are undeniable, provided the wines aren't simply the latest, most fashionable, standardized examples. They have the merit of being vibrant and particularly alive, perhaps with some imperfections… Yes, it's simply a return to our roots, a practice already adopted by my father on his small farm. He, too, refused to embrace the chemical conformity of the post-war era.

You donated one of your plots of land to the Hospices de Beaune and are now the first estate in the Chablis appellation to participate in this charitable endeavor. What motivated you to make this donation?

Why publicize this act? It's the same as a poor person giving a euro to someone in need. Besides, some well-known colleagues pointed out to me that it wasn't a large donation considering the size of our land (they themselves haven't done anything yet...). In short, this donation is a small token of gratitude to my native Burgundy , near Beaune . This Burgundy is the Burgundy of Vincenot, of the Brocard lineage, a few leagues from my village, Chaudenay-le-Château. It was at the Hospices Hospital that my father passed away. The media covered it; it wasn't planned, but a big thank you for the publicity.

Find Jean-Marc Brocard's wines at Les Grappes

Loïc Tanguy, contributor to Les Grappes