« Look, Be Quiet, and Learn »

This somewhat austere family motto has enabled the Brocard family to establish the Jean-Marc Brocard estate as one of Chablis’s leading wineries. Wine, Land, Nature, and Tradition. Follow me!

Could you tell us a little more about your background and why you chose wine?

Born in Burgundy to a family of modest farmers, I wanted to stay on that small, humble farm to maintain my connection with nature and out of a desire for freedom. This was against my parents’ wishes. After earning a BTS in Agricultural Engineering and a rewarding stint at a design firm, I was given the opportunity to return as a farmhand to my in-laws’ vineyard in Saint-Bris-le-Vineux. My introduction to this new line of work, my father-in-law Émile Petit, and his friends was an exceptionally enriching experience, driven by the values of the land I knew, the people, and the final product: its essence. I had the option to continue growing cherries as well, but I chose to focus on wine. As a non-perishable product, wine allows for control over its marketing and the opportunity to connect with consumers from all over the world, from diverse backgrounds. Before wine is born, it requires extensive work in the vineyard—not only year-round through the four seasons, but also work that is forward-looking, or a consequence of our own actions or the vagaries of nature over many years.

If you had to be a wine?

It’s not always the same depending on the day or the season; I identify more with a Chablis Sainte Claire (which varies with the seasons but always finishes well). I prefer the Vieilles Vignes, which represents the late Petit Louis, my mentor, but I don’t deserve that comparison.

What is your favorite time of year?

The changing of the seasons is always a time of renewal and wonder. Yet the harvest season, despite the hard work involved, remains a gift from nature that should be welcomed with respect and joy, regardless of the outcome.

What are the two words that best describe your personality?

These aren't necessarily strengths, and perhaps it's not up to me to describe myself. I'd say I'm observant and responsive.

Do you have a story to share?

Many stories have unfolded in the cellars. Throughout history, wine has been a catalyst for connection and sharing; the cellar remains a timeless sanctuary that shields you from prying eyes and outside disturbances. The most famous story is that of Guy Roux’s signing of the young soccer player Tainio, in competition with other international clubs. The Auxerre coach had gathered in the cellar the player’s parents, who were from northern Finland, along with interpreters and his staff. Reluctant to leave their son in Auxerre, after hours of difficult conversations and excessive consumption of our finest bottles, the Tainio parents shook hands and realized that this was the best place for their son.

Which encounter made the biggest impression on you?

My most memorable encounter was undoubtedly with Louis Petit, who took me under his wing as if I were his own son and accompanied me for 35 years on this journey through vineyards, wine, and the men and women who make it. He was my mentor. If every encounter is a sharing of one’s preconceptions, I was also particularly fascinated by the wisdom, simplicity, and wealth of knowledge of the poet and friend Jacques Lacarriere, whom I met thanks to Louis.

What really gets on your nerves about the wine world?

It’s the dogma, the hasty judgment, the certainties of certain tasters. It’s also the dissection of the product, which involves focusing solely on its flaws. Dissection is death, whereas a wine in its entirety represents life; we instinctively love it with its flaws, which are often very useful in its development. You remind me of sensory analysis, which is a monumental piece of dissection nonsense leading to the standardization of the product. Every place, every being is a difference, an evocation; respect is ONE.

“Watch, be quiet, and learn”—that’s how you were trained as winemakers. Do you follow the same philosophy with your son?

Our three children received the same upbringing—the one we ourselves received from our farmer parents. We didn’t force it on them, but I think they’ve absorbed those values. Julien, who runs the estate, is perfectly in tune with this philosophy.

You and your son are particularly interested in biodynamics, and the winery now sells a wide range of biodynamic wines. Do you think this represents a genuine return to your roots, or is it a trend that will fade over time?

The return to biodynamics was Julien’s initiative. It began in 1998 on an 11-hectare plot called “La Boissonneuses”; despite my reservations, it was out of a conviction that this would improve the health of the soil and the vines that Julien undertook this long-term project. Convinced that the soil would be better explored and the vines would be more temperate, despite difficult periods. It was not out of concern for trends or marketing that Julien dedicated himself to this work. The results are undeniable, even if the wines aren’t standard models of the latest trend. They have the merit of being vibrant and particularly lively, perhaps with some flaws… Yes, it’s simply a return to our roots, a practice my father already followed on his small farm. He never succumbed to the post-war chemical conformism.

You donated one of your vineyards to the Hospices de Beaune, and you are now the first estate in the Chablis appellation to participate in this charitable initiative. What motivated you to make this donation?

Why publicize this act? It’s the same as when a poor person gives a euro to someone in need. Besides, a few well-known colleagues have pointed out to me that it wasn’t a very large donation given the size of our estate (they themselves haven’t done anything yet…). In short, this donation is a small token of appreciation for my native Burgundy, near Beaune. This Burgundy is the Burgundy of Vincenot, of the Brocard lineage, a few miles from my village, Chaudenay-le-Château. It was at the Hôpital des Hospices that my father passed away. The media reported on it; it wasn’t planned, but a big thank you for the publicity.

Find Jean-Marc Brocard's wines on Les Grappes

Loïc Tanguy, contributor to Les Grappes